Long before modern highways and international borders crisscrossed the Himalayas, caravans laden with silk, wool, tea, and spices trudged through the treacherous high-altitude passes of East Sikkim. Today, the Old Silk Route—anchored by the tiny hamlet of Zuluk and its dizzying 32 hairpin bends—remains one of the most evocative, offbeat road journeys in the Eastern Himalayas.
The historical Silk Route connected Lhasa in Tibet to the trading ports of the Bay of Bengal via Kalimpong. Traders crossed through Jelep La Pass (14,390 ft), resting their mules in high mountain settlements like Gnathang and Zuluk.
Unlike crowded tourist circuits, the Silk Route retains an untamed, serene wilderness. Rustic wooden homestays heated by traditional bukharis (wood-fired stoves) offer visitors authentic Lepcha and Bhutia warmth.
Rising like a geometric spiral out of the dense rhododendron mist, the 32 hairpin bends of Zuluk are a marvel of mountain engineering. Driving this stretch requires steady hands and a high-torque vehicle.
The crown jewel of the trip is Thambi Viewpoint, perched at 11,200 ft. Arriving here before 5:30 AM rewards travelers with an uninterrupted golden sunrise illuminating the entire eastern face of Mount Kanchenjunga, while a sea of clouds rolls underneath the zigzag loops below.
Beyond Thambi lies the high plateau of Gnathang Valley (12,700 ft), known as the "Ladakh of the East" for its treeless terrain and winter snowfall. During the 1888 British-Tibetan war, this valley witnessed intense skirmishes, commemorated by a historic British cemetery.
Further north, Kupup Lake (13,066 ft)—affectionately named "Elephant Lake" for its unmistakable shape—glistens beside the world’s highest golf course (Yak Golf Course, 13,025 ft) and the original Old Baba Mandir shrine.
Travelers typically enter via Rongli (where SDPO permits are issued upon presenting original Voter ID/Passport) and travel through Phadamchen, Zuluk, Gnathang, and exit towards Gangtok via Tsomgo Lake.
Note: The Old Silk Route is prone to heavy snowfall from late December through early March. Carry tire chains if traveling in mid-winter.